How Dr. Martens Built Its Brand to Stand the Test of Time
If you visit any space dedicated to music, art, fashion, or street culture, you’re likely to see Dr. Martens on someone’s feet. The iconic footwear brand has become a symbol of rebellious self-expression, transcending its humble beginnings to become a cultural phenomenon.
"On a stylistic level, Dr. Martens’ simple silhouettes allows [sic] their wearers to adopt the boots and shoes as part of their own individual and very distinctive style,” says Dr. Martens on its website.
"On a practical level, their famous durability and comfort make them ideal for the unforgiving world of gigs and street fashion; and then finally on an emotional level, they are a badge of attitude and empowerment.”
Dr. Martens built a time-honoured brand by embracing the culture surrounding their products, and there’s much that other brands can learn from their story.
This article explores the journey of Dr. Martens, from its inception as a work boot to its status as a globally recognised brand. It also offers insights for retail and eCommerce leaders on how to transform their brands, so they endure the test of time.
How the Dr. Martens Brand Was Formed
The story of Dr. Martens begins in post-war Munich, 1945. Dr. Klaus Maertens, a 25-year-old soldier recovering from a broken foot, created a unique air-cushioned sole to aid his recovery. This innovative design, developed in partnership with mechanical engineer Dr. Herbert Funk, would become the foundation of the Dr. Martens brand.
Initially, the air-cushioned sole shoes were primarily sold to older women and advertised as gardening shoes. However, the brand's trajectory changed dramatically when the Griggs family, known for making sturdy work boots in Wollaston, Northamptonshire, acquired the license to produce boots using Dr. Maertens' air-cushioned soles.
From Work Boot to Cultural Icon
From its humble beginnings as a utilitarian work boot, Dr. Martens underwent a remarkable cultural transformation.
Initially adopted by postmen and factory workers for their durability and comfort, the boots unexpectedly caught the attention of early multi-cultural, ska-loving musicians who championed British working-class style.
This subcultural embrace marked the beginning of the brand's journey into popular culture.
The brand's iconic status was further cemented when Pete Townshend of The Who became the first high-profile individual to wear Dr. Martens. Fans felt Townshend symbolised working-class pride and rebellious attitude, and they associated that image with the footwear.
As American punk bands touring the UK discovered the boots and brought the style back to the United States, Dr. Martens' cultural influence expanded internationally, solidifying its position as a symbol of youth culture and self-expression.
According to a report by Retail Dive, Dr. Martens made £1 billion in revenue during fiscal year 2023, a milestone for the brand. The shoes are still beloved all over world today and continue to symbolize rebellion, individuality, and punk culture.
The DOCS Strategy Framework
At the core of Dr. Martens approach to branding is the DOCS strategy. This focuses on delivering sustainable and profitable growth while safeguarding the brand's future.
This framework comprises four key pillars
- Direct-to-consumer first
- Organizational and operational excellence
- Consumer connection
- Support brand expansion with B2B
Each pillar addresses specific aspects of the business, from expanding digital platforms and improving supply chain efficiency to inspiring rebellious self-expression and partnering with select B2B partners.
This strategy has enabled Dr. Martens to maintain its iconic status while adapting to modern retail challenges, demonstrating the brand's commitment to long-term value creation and consumer engagement.
What Brand Leaders Can Apply from the Dr. Martens Story
Dr. Martens' enduring success offers valuable lessons for retail and eCommerce leaders seeking to create timeless brands. Although some of the footwear brand’s success can be attributed to luck, the company made bold steps to capitalize on the cultural movement surrounding it.
Here are some key suggestions for brands based on the Dr. Martens story:
1. Embrace Your Heritage
Even if your brand is relatively young, there’s a story behind it that’s worth telling.
Dr. Martens has remained true to its roots whilst evolving with the times. The brand's commitment to its original designs and values has been crucial in maintaining authenticity.
Leaders of other brands should identify their brand's core identity and consistently reinforce it across all touchpoints.
2. Build a "Democratic” Brand
Dr. Martens' success stems from its ability to appeal to a diverse consumer base. The brand's 'Democratic brand' approach harnesses inclusive global appeal, allowing it to resonate with various subcultures and generations.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, the brand preserved thanks to its wide and diverse acclaim among consumer groups.
"In tough times consumers turn to products that they trust, that they know are going to be credible in their wardrobes for years to come,” said Chief Executive Kenny Wilson in a report by Reuters.
"Docs is a very democratic brand, where effectively it's roughly half and half men and women and basically sells across all age groups.”
Brand leaders should strive to create products and messaging that can connect with a broad audience whilst maintaining a distinct identity.
3. Balance Tradition with Innovation
While honouring its iconic designs, Dr. Martens continually expands its product offering through style and category variations. This strategy allows the brand to remain relevant to youth culture and stay ahead of emerging cultural trends.
One of the brand’s most recent innovations is a snake-themed Lunar New Year collection for 2025.
According to a report by Footwear News, the product line is part of Dr. Martens "capsule” collection, and it features a versatile range of iconic Dr. Martens silhouettes, including the renowned 1460 boot, the 1461 shoe and a leather backpack to round it out.”
Each style is crafted in snakeskin-embossed leather and features the brand’s "signature craftsmanship.”
Brand leaders can always benefit from fresh ideas. But this lesson from Dr. Martens suggests they should also seek ways to innovate within their brand's established framework, ensuring products evolve without losing their essence.
4. Invest in Direct-to-Consumer Channels
Dr. Martens maintains a globally consistent yet locally relevant approach to consumer engagement. This strategy enables the brand to resonate with customers worldwide whilst adapting to local preferences.
Additionally, Dr. Martens' strategy includes increasing the number of its own stores, expanding its digital platforms, and developing omnichannel capabilities to better reach consumers. These strategies allow for greater control over the brand experience and customer relationships.
Brand leaders should consider strengthening their direct-to-consumer channels to enhance brand equity and drive margin expansion.
5. Focus on Customer Relevance
Dr. Martens focuses on acquiring new consumers and driving loyalty through inspiring 'Rebellious Self Expression' and leveraging insights for impactful marketing initiatives. Although staying relevant to customer should be a given, some brands struggle to do so because understanding their customers can be a challenge.
The key is to develop strategies that not only attract new customers but also foster long-term brand loyalty through emotional connections and shared values. This strategy takes time, but it can be achieved by following the other examples presented here.
6. Curate Strategic Partnerships
Finally, Dr. Martens focuses heavily on building B2B relationships with relevant partners, creators, and collaborators. The brand carefully selects its partners based on cultural fit, then focuses on reaching new audiences to grow the brand.
This can be applied to a variety of brands in a variety of contexts. The key is ensuring a cultural fit exists, as this means the audience of one brand will be receptive to another.
The Future of Dr. Martens
Dr. Martens' journey from a utilitarian work boot to a global icon of self-expression exemplifies the power of authentic brand evolution. By staying true to its roots while embracing change, the brand has successfully navigated cultural shifts and market challenges.
As Dr. Martens looks to the future, it is poised to continue its legacy of innovation and resilience. The brand's commitments to sustainability, including its repair service and "better materials program,” suggest a future where durability meets eco-consciousness
To learn more about how your can create a time-honoured brand, don’t miss eTail London 2025. It’s happening from June 24-25 at the QEII Conference Centre in London, UK.
Download the agenda and get tickets today.